I have been to Mexico only a handful of times, each as part of a group where we stuck mainly to our resort hotel and to the common tourist spots. That’s certainly nothing to complain about, but it wasn’t until my trip to La Paz, the capital city of Baja California Sur, I actually realized what I had been missing: a feel for everyday life in that town and an opportunity to really interact with the locals.
Located on a section of Baja that juts out into the Sea of Cortez, the heart of La Paz is located on the three-mile-long stretch of Malecon Road, where visitors and locals alike flock to restaurants, bars, shops and strolls along the boardwalk (known as the malecón). I had the pleasure of experiencing this area several times during my stay, which gave me a welcome occasion to see La Paz as a local would. Best of all, we felt perfectly safe doing so, a common concern when traveling to Mexico and one I was happy to see was not the case in this section of the city.
Here’s what else I loved about visiting La Paz:
1. Snorkeling With Sea Lions in the Sea of Cortez
We hopped aboard a Fun Baja boat with our fantastic guide, Juan Beltran, to explore the Sea of Cortez. Juan pointed out the Blue-footed Boobies and Great Blue Herons as we passed craggy islands and came upon Los Islotos, an island full of sea lions basking in the sun. We circled the island in our boat then donned our snorkeling gear and splashed into the water. It was incredible to be as close as we were and observe the se lions both above and below water. At one point, Juan led us into a cave where, as we were on our way back out, a young sea lion swam right under our feet — followed closely by his watchful father. The young lion made a loop at the end of the cave and swam right back out; he obviously wasn’t afraid of us and wanted to have a little fun.
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2. Having Lunch on Isla Partida
After re-boarding our boat, we headed to Ensenada Grande beach on Isla Partida in Espíritu Santos for lunch, lounging and water activities. Fun Baja offers day trips and overnight stays on this beach (among other awesome trips), and Juan took us on a tour of the camping tents, showers/bathroom area, dining area and kitchen. I was impressed with the camping tents, which come complete with cots, sleeping bags, pillows, sheets, a light and a cabinet for storing smaller items, and with the modernized restroom facilities. Juan told us guests are asked to limit shower time in order to conserve water and are given use of biodegradable shampoo and soap. Chef Salvador helms the kitchen on the island, serving fresh fish and vegetables brought over from La Paz daily to guests seated at tables and chairs made of dried cactus. Fun Baja does an amazing job keeping this beach as clean and close to its natural state as possible, while still allowing people to enjoy its beauty.
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3. Salsa Dancing at Stella
After dinner back in La Paz later that evening, a few members of our group decided to find a place to go salsa dancing. We made our way along the malécon until we ran right into a fun-looking place called Stella. The music we heard coming from inside sounded pretty good so we decided to take a chance — and thank goodness we did. A live band with a fantastic female lead singer rocked traditional Mexican banda and cumbia tunes as dancers moved around the floor. Not only was our group of three Americans perfectly welcome in this locals-only joint, but some of the men in the bar came up and asked the girls in our party to dance. It didn’t matter we weren’t professionals or even very good, we were there to enjoy ourselves and the local patrons were, too.
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4. Taking a Day Trip to Todos Santos
Founded in the early 1700s with the establishment of the Mission of Santa Rosa de Todos Santos, the village is now a haven for foreign and local artists and is known for its arts and music festivals, which are celebrated throughout the year.
Another big draw in Todos Santos is the Hotel California — no, not that Hotel California, but the hotel and its on-site restaurant have nevertheless adopted the Eagles’ hit song and play it often. We had a delicious, leisurely lunch on the patio of La Coronela Restaurant & Bar at the hotel, filling ourselves with tostadas, chili relleno and fish tacos as a musician played soothing songs on his guitar. Adjacent to the restaurant is the Emporio Gallery & Store, where many of us stocked up on souvenirs.
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5. Enjoying the View at the Beach Club at CostaBaja Resort
While I definitely enjoyed the accommodations, service, restaurants and views at the CostaBaja Resort & Spa, my favorite part about the hotel was its Beach Club. I had a lovely time dipping my toes in the infinity pool and gazing out onto the Sea of Cortez and relaxing in a leaf-shaped lounge set right in the pool. Guests can also take a kayak out to the surrounding marinas or rent snorkeling and stand-up paddle boarding equipment. One can spend hours enjoying all the Beach Club has to offer.
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If you’re looking for a town with a laid-back, beach-y vibe and tons of opportunity for adventure, La Paz is definitely the place to go.
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